How to grow spaghetti squash: soil, plastic mulch and row covers, transplants, direct sowing, spacing, diseases, pests, harvest, curing, storage and seeding rates.
By Hensley’s Seed Co.
Spaghetti Winter Squash - Key Growing Information
SCIENTIFIC NAME:
Cucurbita pepo
CULTURE:
Rich soil that drains freely, with a pH in the 6.0–6.8 range, gives the best results. Plastic mulch and fabric row covers (AG-19 weight) help young plants get going and keep insects off seedlings. Take the covers off when flowering starts so bees can reach the blossoms; misshapen or aborted fruit is often a sign that pollination fell short.
TRANSPLANTING:
About 3 weeks before planting out, sow 2–3 seeds in each 2" pot or cell of a plug flat . Snip off the extras with scissors so one seedling remains per cell. Spend 4–7 days hardening the plants off, then set them out after the last frost at the spacing listed for your variety. Squash roots resent disturbance, so move the seedlings gently.
DIRECT SEEDING:
Plant seeds 1/2–1" deep, two at each planting spot, using the spacing that fits the variety's vine length. Once the seedlings are growing well, remove the weaker one at each spot.
PLANT SPACING:
Between rows, allow about 6' for bush and short-vine types and about 12' for long-vine types. Within the row, space by fruit size: roughly 18–24" for small, 24–36" for medium and 36–48" for large fruit.
DISEASES:
Powdery mildew, downy mildew, bacterial wilt and Phytophthora are the main squash-family diseases. Good drainage, open airflow, controlling insects and rotating crops prevent most problems. For specific treatment options, contact your county Cooperative Extension office.
INSECT PESTS:
Expect cucumber beetles, squash bugs and squash vine borers. Floating row cover shields young plants. Crush clusters of squash bug eggs on leaf undersides by hand. If a borer gets in, slit the stem to remove it and mound soil over the damaged section. Mowing field edges, clearing crop debris in fall and turning the soil in spring to bury overwintering pupae all cut down on pests. Pyrethrin sprays can help somewhat.
HARVEST:
Fruit typically matures 50–55 days after it sets; bring it in before a hard frost. Cut the stem rather than pulling, and handle fruit gently. Cure it in the sun for 5–7 days, or indoors at 80–85°F/27–29°C with plenty of air movement.
STORAGE:
Store at 50–60°F (10–15°C) and 50–70% relative humidity with good airflow; repeated exposure below 50°F (10°C) can cause chilling injury. Spaghetti squash is ready to eat right after picking and keeps up to 3 months.
DAYS TO MATURITY:
Counted from direct sowing; for transplants, take off roughly 14 days.
AVG. DIRECT SEEDING RATES:
At 2 seeds per foot in 6' rows: about 75' per oz., 1,250' per lb., or 5¾ lb. per acre.
SEED SPECS:
Varies by variety; see each product page.
PACKET:
30 seeds.
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