Direct seeding means sowing seed straight into the garden or field. Some crops do better started indoors and transplanted as seedlings, but others are best sown right where they'll grow.
- Plenty of crops are commonly direct-seeded, including beans, carrots and other root crops. For the complete list, see our direct-seeded vegetable chart
- Lots of flowers can be sown directly too, such as sunflowers, zinnias and cosmos. Learn more in our article ten flowers to sow directly.
Benefits of Direct Seeding
- No root disturbance. Transplanting disturbs roots and can shock plants, which may then need several days to settle in and start growing again. A direct-sown crop stays put from seed to harvest.
- No rootbound seedlings. Transplants grow in containers before going out. If bad weather or other delays keep them in their pots past their prime, they can become rootbound and more likely to suffer transplant shock.
- Simpler than starting seeds indoors. You don't need a warm, bright space to raise seedlings, or the trays, labor, time and extra supplies for growing them on and potting them up.
Materials for Direct Seeding
- Tools for preparing beds. Many tools help prepare beds for direct seeding, and which ones you need depends on the size of your garden or field. (More below.)
- Soil thermometer. To see whether the soil is warm enough for seeds to sprout, push a probe thermometer into the soil. When it reads at least the minimum germination temperature listed in our germination guides, you're ready to sow.
- Seeds. Choose your varieties and order enough seed.
- Seeder. Small plantings are easy to sow by hand, but for larger areas a precision seeder can be invaluable. Like bed-prep tools, seeders come in many styles. Your crops and how precisely you want to space them help decide which to use. Most push seeders use interchangeable plates or rollers set up for different crops; others handle a narrower range of seed sizes. Jab planters are made for big seeds. Every type has a hopper to hold seed. Pick the seeder that best fits your crops and planting area. (Learn more in our seeder selection guide.)
- Row labels or stakes. Needed to mark where rows start, where one crop ends and another begins, and the sowing date and variety for each row or section.
- Watering supplies. Options run from a basic watering can to drip tape, soaker hoses or sprinklers. Your planting size, water access, water pressure and crops will determine what works best.
- Weeding tools. Good bed preparation cuts down on weeds later, but you'll almost always need to do some hand weeding. Many hand tools, mulches and flame weeders make the job faster. (See our small-scale weeding and cultivation tool guide.)
- Fertilizer. If your crop needs a boost, a soluble fertilizer such as liquid seaweed or fish emulsion supplies readily available nutrients. (Test your soil before adding anything, though, by sending a sample to a soil-testing lab or with your own home test kit.)
Bed Preparation for Direct Sowing
Good bed prep matters for direct seeding for several reasons. Most seeders work best in firm, smooth soil, and whether you use a seeder or sow by hand, a firm, even bed gives seeds good soil contact, leading to better germination, stronger roots and more vigorous plants.
If you enjoy experimenting, you'll probably work out your own sequence and use your tools to fine-tune a method for each area you plant. If you're new or just want the essentials, follow these steps to get beds ready for direct sowing.
Background. Stakes set along the back kept each bed parallel and evenly spaced.
The beds were formed with an electric tiller, smoothed with a Bed Preparation Rake, and firmed with a seedbed roller.
(For more about tools and techniques, see a six-step bed preparation method or our small-scale bed preparation tool guide.)
- Mark Out the Beds. Marking beds before you start keeps them straight and even, and uniform beds let you fit more into the same space. Two stakes and a length of twine as long as the bed are an easy way to lay out a row.
- Add Amendments If Needed. Common amendments include composted manure, peat moss, lime, greensand and gypsum, among many others. They adjust nutrients and pH to suit your crops and improve soil structure. A soil test before planting will tell you which ones you need.
- Till or Broadfork. This works in any amendments you've added. Tillage can also bury or clear last year's crop residue, kill weeds and reduce insects overwintering in the soil. Don't till wet soil, which can cause compaction and damage structure. In small areas, a broadfork will loosen and aerate the soil. Electric tillers help with larger areas, and for big plots, many growers prefer a gas tiller or a tiller attachment on a compact tractor.
- Level and Smooth. The easiest tool for this is a Bed Preparation Rake. A level, smooth bed lets a seeder roll along without bouncing.
- Firm the Soil. With precision seeders, a firm, smooth bed keeps soil from clogging the wheels. A Seedbed Rollerweighted down with extra load on its top rack does this well.
- Remove Weeds. If you can, wait a few days for weeds to sprout, then flame, tarp or pull them before planting, and smooth the bed again if needed.
Sowing to Thinning Stages
Soil Temperature & Germination Guides
Before sowing, make sure soil temperature and moisture are right for quick, even germination. Seed sown in soil that's too cold or wet may rot or come up poorly. Air and soil temperatures are usually different, so for direct sowing, go by the soil temperature.
Soil at 55–65°F (13–18°C) suits germination for most crops, though some need it cooler or warmer.
The back of the seed packet and our Key Growing Information Pages are good sources for the best sowing time and soil temperature.
For vegetables, the germination guide on each product page and in our catalog also shows the best temperature range. In the carrot example here, seeds can sprout anywhere from 41°F to above 95°F, do best between 68°F and 86°F, and peak at about 77°F.
Each vegetable product page includes a germination guide showing that crop's ideal temperature range.
Check soil temperature with a soil probe thermometer before you sow so seeds don't sprout poorly.
Special Seed Treatments Prior to Planting
Some crops, many flowers especially, need pretreatment so the seed can break dormancy. That might mean soaking, cold stratification or scarification. Check the seed packet or our Key Growing Information Pages for details on each crop.
Some pelleted seed is also primed, which can make germination more uniform and help overcome temperature- or light-related dormancy. (Learn more in about our seed.)
Sowing Seeds
Sow each crop at the rate, depth and row spacing listed on the seed packet or our Key Growing Information Pages. Direct sowing usually calls for a heavier seeding rate than starting transplants indoors. Seeds outdoors face the weather, so sowing at the suggested rate helps ensure enough come up for a full stand.
As a rough guide, sow small seeds ⅛–¼" deep and larger seeds ½–1" deep.
Watering
After sowing, water so the soil is evenly moist and seeds are in close contact with it. Mist or water tiny seeds gently so they don't wash away. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy, until seedlings emerge. Sprouting seeds and tiny seedlings are fragile and need steady moisture to get through their first stages; drying out even briefly can kill them. Pelleted seed needs more water at first so the coating can split or dissolve.
Post Germination
Watering
Water as needed to keep soil from drying out, which may mean daily or not at all, depending on rain, heat and sun.
Weeding
Weed often. Weeds compete with your crop for water, nutrients and space, so keep the bed clean until seedlings are big enough to hold their own.
Mulching
Mulch suppresses weeds and holds in moisture. Add it once seedlings are well established, using straw, grass clippings, leaves or other handy materials. Skip anything likely to carry weed seed, such as hay or raw manure.
Thinning
Thinning means pulling out extra seedlings in crowded rows once they have their first true leaves, so the rest have room and nutrients to grow. Snip or pinch off unwanted seedlings at the soil line rather than pulling them, so you don't disturb neighboring roots. Leave the thinnings in place or compost them.
Fertilizing
If your crop needs it, start feeding with a soluble fertilizer about 4 weeks after germination, following label directions, roughly weekly. A crop that looks green and healthy usually needs little or no extra fertilizer.
Problems to Avoid
- Spotty germination and thin stands. Common causes include:
- Soil that was too cold or wet at sowing.
- A seeder set up for the wrong seed size, causing skips or seed placed too shallow or deep.
- Damage from insects, birds, other pests or disease.
- Overwatering that rotted the seed.
- Birds and other animals. An early hurdle with direct sowing is keeping birds, mice and other rodents from eating the seed.
- If birds are a problem, protect fresh sowings with bird netting or row cover to keep birds off.
- Deter rodents with Plantskydd®.
- Slow maturity. Indoor transplants get ideal conditions while they sprout and grow, so they get off to a quicker start. Direct-sown crops, by contrast, can't go in until outdoor temperatures allow. Sow long-season crops as early as conditions permit, or use transplants.
- Weed competition. Tiny seedlings struggle to compete with weeds, since they lack deep roots to reach nutrients or enough leaves to shade weeds out. Keep a close eye on weeds so they don't take over.
- More insect damage. Small direct-sown seedlings are more vulnerable to insects than transplants. Their leaves are softer, and feeding hurts a small plant much more. Row covers can protect direct-sown crops and add a little warmth too.
Learn More
- Growing information for vegetables, fruit, herbs, flowers and farm seed • Index
- Seed needed and typical yield per 100' row or acre for direct-sown vegetables • Chart
- Six-step bed preparation method • article
- How to choose a small-scale seeder • article
- Small-scale bed preparation tools • article
- Small-scale weeding and cultivation tools • article
- USDA hardiness zone map
- Find your Cooperative Extension office
