Types of Melons & the Basics of Successful Melon Growing

A dead-ripe, homegrown melon ranks among the best treats in all of produce. Sweet, fragrant and meltingly tender, a fresh local melon is a world away from what you find at the grocery store. Most supermarket melons are bred to survive shipping: their flesh is firmer to withstand bumps on the packing line and in transit, they trade sweetness and aroma for longer shelf life, and they're often picked before full ripeness. For these varieties, eating quality takes a back seat to shipping and handling.

Every melon in the Hensley’s lineup was chosen because it meets our standards for sweetness, texture and flavor while keeping the field performance and adaptability to tough conditions that growers count on. These melons give home gardeners and local sellers something most supermarkets don't carry, and people who taste one rarely go back to store-bought. Pair the right varieties with good growing know-how and you can grow melons that impress the fussiest eaters, buyers, chefs and friends.

Melon Types

In the broadest sense, melons are members of the cucurbit family (Cucurbitaceae) and span several genera. Here we focus on the "true" melons, varieties of the species Cucumis melo. Even within this species there are subgroups that can confuse experienced growers, so we've sorted them into two broad categories to make a big assortment easier to navigate:

Netted Melons

This category covers two subgroups of Cucumis melo: C. melo var. cantalupensis, and C. melo var. reticulatus. Both usually have netted rinds at maturity (though some cantalupensis types are only lightly netted), very aromatic flesh, and similar needs for growing, harvest and storage.

• Cantaloupe

  “Cantaloupe” and “muskmelon”, terms often used interchangeably, actually cover a fairly broad range of melons in both C. melo var. cantalupensis and C. melo var. reticulatus. Whatever the botanical label, they share the classic musky aroma and sweet taste. Two kinds of cantaloupe that Hensley’s carries are:

  • Eastern: As the name suggests, these were traditionally grown mostly in the eastern US. They have deep ribs (sutures), a less round shape and a fully straw-colored rind with irregular netting. The flesh is orange and the seed cavity tends to be larger, since they were mostly bred for local sales and eating right away rather than long storage and shipping.
  • Tuscan: These Italian types share the less round shape and deep ribs of eastern types but usually have a smaller seed cavity and heavier netting. Most notably, their ribs are gray-green on young fruit and turn light green or yellow as the melon ripens, while eastern types have ribs the same color as the rest of the rind. Like eastern types, they tend to be sweeter, softer and more fragrant.

• Charentais (French)

  
  Charentais (French) melons are among the most prized melons anywhere.

  From the mild, fertile Charentes region of west-central France, Charentais melons are among the most celebrated in the world. Their thin skin and soft flesh make them hard to ship without damage, so they're rare in big stores. These small French melons belong to the cantalupensis group, with flesh like a cantaloupe but even more fragrant, often with floral notes of jasmine and honeysuckle. The rind ranges from lightly checked to fully netted, with distinctive ribs running from stem to blossom end. Judging ripeness can be harder than with most netted types. (See Ripeness Indicators.)

• Galia (Tropical)

  
  Galia (tropical) melons have a rich, tropical-tasting flavor.

  These round to slightly oval melons are relatively new; the first variety came out in the 1970s, developed by an Israeli breeder who named it for his daughter. Their thick, pale green flesh is smooth, sweet and complex, with a tropical flavor and a fresh, banana-like scent. Part of the reticulatus group along with muskmelons, Galia melons have a dense, corky net like a cantaloupe but no ribs.

Smooth-Skinned Melons

Honeydew, piel de sapo, canary, and crenshaw melons and others generally fall under Cucumis melo var. inodorus, which usually have smooth skin and a milder flavor and aroma than netted types. They're sometimes called "winter" melons (not to be confused with Benincasa hispida, which goes by the same common name) because many mature late and, with the right conditions, keep well into winter. “Oriental” or Asian melons can also be loosely grouped here, though they belong to Cucumis melo var. makuwa.

• Canary

  
  Canary melons have a delicate flavor that often hints of tropical fruit.

  Traditionally grown in Spain and parts of Asia, canary melons are oval to oblong and named for their bright yellow skin, which turns waxy when fully ripe. The juicy, cream-colored flesh is very sweet and slightly grainy, like a soft pear, with a delicate, often tropical flavor.

• Crenshaw

  
  The outstanding flavor of crenshaw melons is among our favorites.

  Crenshaw melons are big and oblong, with a pale-yellow rind around creamy, sweet orange flesh. Their outstanding flavor makes them a long-time favorite, often described as halfway between honeydew and cantaloupe, with floral notes and a light hint of spice.

• Honeydew

  
  Honeydew melons are known for firm flesh, a smooth rind and no musky aroma.

  Honeydew melons have firm flesh, a smooth rind and no musky smell. Most people know them from store-bought fruit salad. The honeydews Hensley’s carries mature earlier, taste sweeter, look better and run smaller (medium size) than typical supermarket honeydews. And although honeydews usually prefer semiarid climates, these varieties build high sugar even in cool, cloudy weather and resist the conditions that normally make fruit crack.

• Oriental/Asian

  
  Crisp and refreshing, Asian types often appeal to people who find other melons too sweet or musky.

  Grown across central and eastern Asia, oriental melon types are usually oblong, with a golden-yellow rind and crisp white flesh. Light and refreshing, they appeal to people who find other melons too sweet or too musky. The strains Hensley’s carries mature very early and cope with cooler weather better than other melon types.

• Piel de sapo

  
  Piel de sapo melons taste sweet and mild, much like honeydew and canary melons.

  Piel de sapo is Spanish for "toad skin," a nod to the thick, mottled green rind flecked with yellow. Don't let the name put you off: piel de sapo melons are popular outside the US and taste sweet and mild, much like honeydew and canary melons, with crisp, juicy, pale green to white flesh. They're typically very late to mature, which is why they're also called Christmas or Santa Claus melons; older varieties in particular are huge and very late. 'Lambkin' is an unusually small, early piel de sapo.

Succession-Planting Melons

Several succession plantings are the best way to stagger ripening and stretch the harvest. You can get some spread from one planting of early and late varieties, but most melons have fairly similar days to maturity, so multiple plantings work better. Spells of hot, stressful weather can also make varieties with different maturities ripen all at once, another reason to plant in succession. Set plants out after the danger of frost, but don't plant too late in summer, or there may not be enough season left for fruit to ripen. See our Comparison Chart of Melon Varieties to compare traits, including days to maturity.

Seed Starting

Melons love heat and are frost-tender. You can direct-sow them outdoors, but only in the warmest, most favorable conditions. Most growers get better results starting them indoors, which helps by:

• Raising germination rates
• Protecting seed and seedlings from cutworms, rodents and birds
• Reducing damping-off
• Giving a head start where seasons are short

Indoors, sow about a month before you plan to transplant so seedlings don't get too big. Tall, spindly seedlings are easily damaged and prone to transplant shock.

Sow 1–2 seeds per cell, ¼" deep, and thin to one plant per cell. To help prevent damping-off, keep the mix a little drier than for most crops, water carefully, and let it dry moderately between waterings. Good airflow is essential; if needed, set small fans over the benches.

To avoid root damage at transplanting, use large cells so plants can size up before going out, such as 50 cell plug flats.

Set trays on a heat mat at 80–90°F (27–32°C) until seeds sprout, then turn it down to about 75°F (24°C) while seedlings grow.

Seedlings are ready to transplant once they have a couple of sets of true leaves. Harden them off for about a week first by lowering temperature and water.

Transplanting

Once frost danger is past and the weather is reliably warm, transplant seedlings 18" apart in rows 6' apart. Even hardened-off melon seedlings are delicate, so handle them gently to reduce transplant shock and help them perform.

Right after transplanting, water them in with a fertilizer solution. Fish emulsion is a good organic choice, giving a nutrient boost without burning tender transplants.

Melons are usually grown on plastic mulch for soil warming and weed control. In cooler regions, solar mulch is a good choice because it warms soil more than black plastic. In the South, most growers plant melons only in spring to avoid midsummer heat, though some also grow a fall crop.

Watering/Irrigation

Melons are thirsty and need regular irrigation, but only until the fruits reach full size, not full ripeness. Drip irrigation keeps water off the leaves, which helps prevent disease. Texture and flavor develop while the fruit ripens, so hold off on watering during that stage unless plants show clear heat stress, such as wilting. Watering ripening fruit can leave it bland and watery.

Pests & Diseases

In the Northeast, the main melon pest is the cucumber beetle, which can kill seedlings, badly damage leaves and young fruit, and spread bacterial wilt (Erwinia tracheiphila). Most growers keep beetles off by covering transplants with row cover right after planting. We suggest AG-19, which adds warmth while keeping insects out. Hoops aren't required but can help in windy spots; strong wind sometimes lets row cover rub the plants, though the damage is usually minor and the plants outgrow it.

Many growers also protect young plants with Kaolin clay (Surround), which leaves a protective film that repels pests, irritates and confuses them, and discourages feeding and egg-laying. It also helps protect against sunscald and can lower heat stress on leaves. It's usually sprayed on, but whole trays of seedlings can be dipped for early protection.

Low tunnels covered in vented plastic are another option if melon prices justify the cost. They also shield the crop from heavy rain and add warmth for young plants, allowing earlier spring and later fall crops.

Pollination

Melons must be pollinated to set fruit. When the vines start to run and the first flowers open, remove covers or tunnels, or roll up the sides during the day, so pollinators can reach the flowers. Bringing in beehives can also improve pollination and yield.

Melon Ripeness Indicators & Harvesting

Knowing exactly when to pick a melon is part art, part science, and you'll get better at it with observation and practice. Each type gives signals as it approaches and reaches peak ripeness. The other big factor is how long it will be before the melon is eaten (more below).

Clues to watch for. Changes you can see or feel at ripeness include:

• Rind
• A change in skin tone or color.
• Cracks, streaks or other markings.
• Slight softening.
• Where the fruit stem meets the vine
• The tendril or leaf closest to the fruit stem turns brown and shrivels.
• The area where the stem joins the fruit shrinks and cracks. When you see this, test for ripeness. It's the main clue growers rely on, since it's typical of each melon type and relates to how the fruit comes off the vine.

How the fruit detaches. When ripe, some melons "slip" off the vine easily or with a slight tug, while others have to be cut. There are three general categories:

• Full-Slip: Ripe fruit comes free with a light tug or a gentle press of the thumb against the stem (peduncle).
• Forced-Slip: Also called half-slip. Ripe fruit needs a firm push of the thumb against the stem to separate, more pressure than full-slip types, but no cutting is needed.
• Non-Slip: Also called cut-from-the-vine types. Cut ripe fruit from the vine at peak ripeness; left until they slip, if they ever do, they'd be far overripe.

If the crop will be shipped or stored, some growers harvest before peak ripeness, picking full-slip types early at forced slip, or cutting forced-slip types early. Keep in mind that flavor suffers.

Harvest timing varies by variety, but melon types tend to fall into one of these three categories. Below are general guidelines for each type, but keep in mind that individual varieties can be exceptions. See our melon comparison chart for variety-specific details.

Full-Slip Types

• Cantaloupe: generally ripe when the rind shifts from greenish to a warm straw color and the fruit slips easily from the vine. Tuscan types also signal ripeness when their ribs change from gray-green to light green or yellow. Some varieties bred for longer shelf life are forced-slip or even cut, but most are full-slip.
• Galia/tropical melons: ready when the rind turns yellow and small cracks form around the stem, meaning the fruit will slip off with a gentle tug (full-slip).
• Piel de sapo: as it ripens, the rind's background color turns from green to yellow while keeping some green speckling, true to its name. You can harvest in two ways: cut early from the vine for longer shelf life, or leave on the vine for the best flavor and pick at full slip.

Forced-Slip Types

• Canary: pick at forced slip when the fruit turns a deep canary yellow and the blossom end gives slightly to gentle thumb pressure. (You can also cut fruit a little earlier for longer shelf life.)
• Crenshaw: ready when the skin is creamy yellow and the fruit gives slightly to the touch. They can usually be picked at full or forced slip; a couple of extra days on the vine makes them riper and tastier but shortens storage life.
• Oriental: pick when fruit turns slightly golden, at forced slip or by cutting. Even fully ripe, these are less sugary than other melons, with a mild flavor somewhere between honeydew and cucumber.

Non-Slip Types

• Charentais: ready to cut when the small, long-stemmed leaf beside the fruit turns pale and the little tendril nearest the fruit's attachment point browns. A yellowish warming of the skin is another clue (orange skin means overripe).
• Honeydew: like Charentais, honeydews have a small, long-stemmed leaf on the vine opposite the fruit that yellows when the melon is ripe. A warming of the skin tone is another sign. Cut from the vine to harvest.

For more on when to harvest each type, see the variety descriptions on our product pages. With practice you'll learn to pick melons at their peak.

Melon Storage & Shelf Life

The storage conditions and times below are approximate; variety, ripeness at harvest and other factors all affect shelf life. General guidelines:

Storage Conditions

• Netted melons keep best at 36–41°F (2–5°C) and 90–95% relative humidity, and can suffer chilling injury below about 35°F. They produce ethylene and are sensitive to it.
• Smooth-skinned melons keep best at 45–50°F (7–10°C) and 85–95% relative humidity, and can suffer chilling injury below 45°F. They generally produce less ethylene and are far less sensitive to it than netted melons.

Any melon will keep a few days unrefrigerated, and longer if chilled. Chilling can come at a cost to flavor, though, dulling it over time, and melons are usually juicier and softer if left at room temperature for a day or two before serving. Still, plenty of people prefer them cold, especially in hot weather.

Storage Potential

Here's how melon types rank for shelf life:

• Shortest shelf life: cantaloupe and galia keep 2–3 days at room temperature and 7–10 days refrigerated. The cantaloupe 'Athena' stores better than most, though stored fruit may not taste as good as the most flavorful cantaloupes.

• Moderate shelf life: charentais, crenshaw, and piel de sapo types keep 4–5 days at room temperature and 7–12 days refrigerated.

• Longest shelf life: canary, oriental, and honeydew keep about 7 days at room temperature and 10–14 days refrigerated.

Learn More

Growing melons is well worth the effort. There's a learning curve, but once you've got the basics down, melons can be a satisfying and profitable crop. Best of all, you choose the types and varieties: no more bland melons for you, your family, friends or customers. With the right varieties and know-how, even in short, cool summers, you can grow melons of top appearance, quality and flavor.

If you're planning to grow melons this year, contact us with any questions. Below are more resources to help you get started.

Hensley’s Resources

• Cucumis melo Melon varieties • chart (PDF)
• Cantaloupe varieties • chart (PDF)
• Cucumis melo Melon production • tech sheet (PDF)

Further Reading

• Check your state's cooperative extension website; many offer region-specific advice on growing, harvesting and storing vegetable crops.